Skincare Ingredients 101: AHA vs. BHA
What’s the secret to a glowing, radiant complexion? Exfoliating. This is not to say that the other steps in your skincare routine aren’t important. Still, regular exfoliation helps all of the other products in your skincare routine function properly because they can penetrate more effectively. There are two ways to remove dead skin cells: either with a physical exfoliant (aka scrub) or a chemical one, such as an alpha hydroxy or beta hydroxy acid. What’s the difference, and how do they work to improve your skin’s texture? Here’s an AHA vs BHA breakdown.
What Is AHA?
An AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) is a type of exfoliating acid derived from sugarcane, milk, or fruit. Some examples include glycolic, citric, lactic, malic, mandelic, and tartaric acids. AHAs are generally used for their anti-aging benefits, and they can help treat acne, too. They’re best for those with normal to dry skin because they’re more moisturizing.
What Is BHA?
BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) are better for those with oily and acne-prone skin because they’re oil-soluble, which means they can work deep inside the pore to remove sebum (oil) and dead skin cells. Salicylic acid is the star BHA, and it’s found in many acne treatment products. Unlike alpha-hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids can reduce inflammation and calm red, irritated skin. With that said, BHAs are also ideal for those with sensitive skin or rosacea, though it’s a good idea to speak with your dermatologist before incorporating them into your routine.
Difference Between AHAs & BHAs
The main difference between AHAs and BHAs is that the former is water-soluble, and the latter is oil-soluble. As mentioned, AHAs are better for those with normal to dry (or mature) skin. In contrast, BHAs are more effective for anyone dealing with oiliness, large pores, acne, or even rosacea or sensitive skin.
Benefits of AHA and BHA For Skin
Along with skin type, determining your skin goals will help you determine if AHAs or BHAs are better for you.
AHAs
- Improve skin tone and texture
- Fade hyperpigmentation
- Reduce surface wrinkles
- Stimulate collagen production
- Hydrate
BHAs
- Treat acne
- Unclog pores
- Reducing inflammation
- Improve skin tone and texture
How To Use AHAs
For BHA skincare that contains salicylic acid, most formulas typically have anywhere between 0.5% to 2%, so as with AHAs, start with a lower percentage and slowly introduce it into your routine to identify your level of tolerance. You can gradually amp up frequency and percentage. BHAs also make your skin more sun-sensitive, so use them at night and sunscreen during the day.
How To Use BHAs
For BHA skincare that contains salicylic acid, most formulas typically have anywhere between 0.5% to 2%, so as with AHAs, start with a lower percentage and slowly introduce it into your routine to identify your level of tolerance. You can gradually amp up frequency and percentage. BHAs also make your skin more sun-sensitive, so use them at night and sunscreen during the day.
Mixing AHAs and BHAs With Retinol
Retinol is probably the gold star anti-aging ingredient as it’s a warrior against fine lines, wrinkles, skin tone, and texture. However, if you want to use it along with an AHA or BHA, there are a few precautions to take. For example, use the two acids on alternating nights. Find a routine that works to minimize irritation. Make sure you’re keeping your skin moisturized, and again, always use sun protection during the day. While some people can use AHAs or BHAs and retinol sequentially if their skin can tolerate it, it’s essential to wait 30 minutes between the two products to allow the skin’s pH to return to normal.